As may have been expected, fashion forecasts for Spring 2024 showcased an abundance of florals. Bloom-shaped appliqués were plentiful at Balmain, Loewe and Margiela. There were botanical prints of all varieties: Some were eye popping and vibrant, while others more were dramatic and hyperrealist. Other trends that re-emerged this season included sleek, tailored suits in neutral tones, tiers of sheer, color-blocking and a playful spin on country club dressing.
Of all the style propositions presented on the runway for 2024, however, there were two trends that truly felt, well, groundbreaking.
Return To Bohemia
Chloe’s newly-resurrected bohemian gal for Fall 2024 stirred excitement, especially among those of us who spent a large part of our 20s in chunky heels, oversized vintage eyewear, flared jeans, and billowy tops. In the early 2000’s the boho-chic ideal was embodied through the looks served by the Olsen Twins (pre-The Row era, of course), Sienna Miller, and Nicole Richie. Theirs was a colorful, whimsical, magpie-esque sensibility that fed the sartorial appetites of a burgeoning set of street style paparazzi.
Countless boho-chic iterations have attempted a comeback since then. None have come close to the modernist, and more polished spin we are now seeing from fashion’s heroes–both the unsung and the revered.
Chemana Kamali’s tribute to Karl Lagerfeld’s vision of bohemia for Chloe emphasizes an ease and sense of freedom in modern dressing via light layers of sheer, immaculate applications of lace, and toned-down hues.
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While we eagerly wait for fall to get our hands on Kamali’s much-talked about collection, these fashion-forward, under-the-radar labels are giving us a head start in our collective return to bohemia.
The Sleeper was on point this Spring its new collection of linen dresses inspired by English horticulturist, Ellen Willmott. It features voluminous sleeves, gathered floral details, and off-the-shoulder necklines.
J’amemme’s signature origami pleats were reimagined in the Artificial Garden collection for Spring to add texture, dimension and drama to any boho-inspired ensemble. Designer Julie Yarmoliuk explains, “I imagine our items as timeless as the mysterious flowers, that were created to remain outside of the constraints of seasons and timelines, staying frozen in their beauty. Each piece tells a story that knows no place, no time, and no limits. It's a celebration of the surreal, the unexpected, and the everlasting charm that transcends the ordinary.”
Omelia is a sustainable brand that reworks vintage shirts. It’s collection for Spring 2024, aptly dubbed Fervent Heart, deconstructs shirts, adding lace and floral details, and tassles. Designer Kostiantyn Omelia shares, ‘Almost every piece in our collection is crafted from vintage shirts or fabric remnants discovered in thrift stores and stock shops. While they are often overlooked, they mark the beginning of something beautiful and unique to me."
Low-Key Luxury Is Here To Stay
Phoebe Philo’s much-awaited collection, also referred to as the “second edit,” finally dropped this spring on her website. The elusive designer, who was said to be MIA during press previews in late 2023, made her presence felt through distinctive design codes that resonate with a fiercely loyal following. Regardless of season, Philo’s fashion disciples can never seem to get enough of her clean, almost-clinical silhouettes, impeccable tailoring, and use fabrics made for style royalty.
If anything, Philo’s work and the warm reception it has enjoyed from fashion cognoscenti is a clear indication that quiet luxury is here to stay. A few key pieces in your wardrobe this spring can elevate your look from basic to trust fund dandy.
Brochu Walker is an under-the-radar brand that has long subscribed to the tenets of quite luxury. For Spring 2024, Creative Director Karine Dubner envisioned a easy, transitional wardrobe that utilize luxurious fabrics like cashmere while exploring customized shades of white and other neutral tones.
Marsego is an emerging brand from Ukraine that has craved out a niche in the elevated basics category. More recently, it launched a special capsule collection done in collaboration with model and social media personality Anna Andres. The team describes, “Our collections are made to help customers create the ideal basic wardrobe. Pieces can be easily combined with other garments. The Atlas silk suit and its matching scarf is pays homage to French aesthetics, elegance, and enduring charm.”
Malene Birger presents a laid-back, pared down collection for spring set against the Greek Island of Hydra. True to its roots in Scandinavian minimalism, the Danish brand crafts a design narrative this season through easy and enduring silhouettes cut out from luxurious fabrics. Creative Director for Malene Birger, Maja Dixdotter expounds, “Model Malgosia Bela symbolises everything that the BY MALENE BIRGER collection stands for. She’s confident, smart and secure in her own skin. Photographing her wearing spring’s effortless looks in Hydra, an island that communicates culture and low-key luxury, was a highly personal experience, as Malgosia has a home here. She also has a strong connection with Suzanne Koller, who knows the island well. The result is a series of intimate portraits that feel honest, infused with feminine creativity,”
